7 + Noah Arenstein
/I don’t even see Espadins as less complicated anymore
Noah Arenstein joins us to discuss his approach to curating an agave distillate menu. Owner of the late great Madre Mescaleria in Brooklyn, Noah is currently GM at the Michelin starred restaurant Claro in the Gowanus neighborhood of Brooklyn. He offers a well-rounded explanation of what it's like to be on the purchasing end of the industry and what he looks for when deciding to add a brand to Claro’s exceptional Agave Spirits menu.
Noah also recently returned from Durango. We talk about the Cenizo Agave and the different flavor profiles it produces in comparison to the Angustifolias (Espadins) of Oaxaca, along with the particular fermentation style of the region and the different lengths of fermentation time in certain areas as well as still construction.
We discuss his interest in promoting “field blends” and his passion and love for Espadins. Noah describes the flavor profiles of spirits with a keen and articulated expressiveness that is a pleasure to listen to - we highly recommend making a reservation at Claro and letting Noah curate an exceptional tasting experience for you!
1. Map of Durango, Mexico (link)
2., 3. Cenizo agaves in Nombre de Dios, Durango, Mexico
4. Preparing the roast et El Ojo ranch in Durango
5. Hot coals moments before the agaves are piled on
6. Shallow, wooden fermentation “coffins”, a traditional form used extensively throughout Durango
7. Agitating the fermenting tepache
8. Wood “hats” sit on top of distillation tanks with wooden spoons
9. Sunset at El Ojo Ranch in Durango
10. Cenizo quiote
11. Durango landscape with Cenizo agaves
Tlayudas, mole, red and blue corn and the dining room at Claro in Brooklyn, New York
+ All images courtesy of Noah Arenstein
Lorena Terán Ibarra is the director of Copita Project for El Buho Mezcal where she leads the regenerative agriculture and educational programs.
Initiated by the founders of El Buho, the Copita Project seeks to replenish and preserve the balance of the natural environment while planting cultivated and semi-cultivated agaves.